The cosmetics industry, once solely focused on enhancing physical appearance, is undergoing a significant transformation. Driven by consumers’ growing awareness of environmental issues and preference for natural ingredients, the sector is turning to the ocean for inspiration. Marine organisms, with their unique biochemical compositions, offer a treasure trove of potential ingredients for a wide range of cosmetic products.
A comprehensive scientific review published by scientists from the National Institute of Biology, the Hellenic Center for Marine Research, the University of Ljubljana, the Institute of Natural Products and Agrobiology (IPNA-CSIC), among other academic organizations, provides an overview of the potential of marine organisms for cosmetics production, highlighting marine-derived compounds and their applications in various product categories.
The study, published in the journal iScience, also addresses critical safety considerations, including methodologies for obtaining marine compounds, such as harvesting, biorefinery concepts, and the use of systems biology to enhance product development.
Marine-derived ingredients: a treasure for beauty
From the ocean depths to the surface, marine organisms have evolved to thrive in diverse and often harsh conditions. This has resulted in the development of a myriad of bioactive compounds with remarkable properties.
Various studies have shown that compounds from marine organisms (macroalgae, microalgae, sea cucumbers, etc.), including polysaccharides, peptides, lipids, and pigments, possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and skin-regenerating effects.
The compounds have the potential to revolutionize the cosmetics industry, offering innovative solutions for skin, hair, and oral care.
- Skincare: Marine-derived compounds, such as polysaccharides and peptides, exhibit remarkable moisturizing, anti-aging, and wound-healing properties.
- Haircare: Marine extracts, including algae and fish proteins, can nourish hair, improve its texture, and promote growth.
- Oral care: Marine-derived compounds, such as calcium and fluorine, can strengthen teeth and freshen breath.
The importance of a holistic approach
While the Use of marine biomass in cosmetics may seem like a simple solution, it is essential to consider the complexity of natural substances and the potential risks associated with their use. Natural substances are often mixtures of multiple components, which can interact in unpredictable ways, resulting in the chemical modification of harmful products. Additionally, potentially toxic components may not be revealed in ingredient lists, posing a significant challenge for both consumers and producers.
To overcome these challenges, a holistic approach is needed that involves collaboration among multiple scientific disciplines, such as ecology, biotechnology, toxicology, economics, regulatory science, and social and environmental sustainability. This approach recognizes that simply cultivating biomass or extracting compounds is not enough to create environmentally friendly products.
The future of marine cosmetics: a sustainable approach
To ensure the sustainable use of marine resources, researchers and industry professionals are exploring innovative approaches:
- Sustainable harvesting: Responsible harvesting practices and the development of sustainable aquaculture techniques are crucial to minimizing environmental impact.
- Biorefinery concept: This approach maximizes the value of marine biomass by extracting multiple valuable compounds from a single source.
- Systems biology: By understanding the complex interactions within marine organisms, scientists can identify and optimize the production of bioactive compounds.
- Regulatory landscape: Adherence to strict regulatory standards is essential to ensure the safety and efficacy of marine-derived cosmetic products.
Case studies: Pioneering marine cosmetics
Several inspiring case studies highlight the potential of marine-derived cosmetics:
- Design of skincare products based on macroalgae in Iceland: This case study highlights the development of skincare products using macroalgal biomass, demonstrating the potential of marine-derived ingredients in skincare.
- Creation of a cosmetics spin-off company from microalgae in Italy: this case study demonstrates the potential of microalgal biomass in the development of cosmetics, highlighting the importance of collaboration between industry and academia.
- Use of marine proteins for cosmeceuticals: this case study shows the potential of marine proteins in the development of cosmeceuticals, highlighting the importance of bioactivity, stability, safety, and efficacy testing in the development of marine-derived cosmetics.
Conclusion
The use of marine biomass in cosmetics offers a promising solution for the development of sustainable and environmentally friendly products. However, a holistic approach is needed, involving collaboration among multiple scientific disciplines and a comprehensive understanding of the key aspects of marine-derived cosmetics.
By adopting a sustainable bioeconomy approach and ensuring compliance with relevant laws and regulations, the cosmetics industry can unlock the potential of marine biomass and provide consumers with safe, sustainable, and effective products.
Contact
Ana Rotter
Marine Biology Station Piran, National Institute of Biology
Fornače 41, 6330 Piran, Slovenia
Email: ana.rotter@nib.si
Reference (open access)
Rotter, A., Varamogianni-Mamatsi, D., Zvonar Pobirk, A., Gosenca Matjaž, M., Cueto, M., Díaz-Marrero, A. R., Jónsdóttir, R., Sveinsdóttir, K., Catalá, T. S., Romano, G., Aslanbay Guler, B., Atak, E., Berden Zrimec, M., Bosch, D., Deniz, I., Gaudêncio, S. P., Grigalionyte-Bembič, E., Klun, K., Zidar, L., . . . Mandalakis, M. (2024). Marine cosmetics and the blue bioeconomy: From sourcing to success stories. IScience, 27(12), 111339. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.isci.2024.111339
