Betta Fish (Siamese Fighting Fish): Complete care guide for aquarium, eeding, breeding, and common illnesses

Betta fish (Betta splendens), popularly known as the fighting fish, Siamese fighting fish, or simply Betta, are one of the most fascinating and sought-after species of ornamental fish by aquarists worldwide. Their dazzling beauty, characterized by long, flowing fins and an incredible variety of vibrant colors, makes them a jewel for any aquarium. However, the popularity of these fish often contrasts with the lack of accessible, science-based information about their specific needs.

Many hobbyists, especially those new to the world of fishkeeping, rely on anecdotal advice, outdated manuals, or fragmented information. This situation can lead to suboptimal living conditions, affecting the health, well-being, and longevity of these magnificent fish.

At AquaHoy, we are committed to the well-being of your aquatic pets. For this reason, we have prepared this exhaustive and updated guide, based on scientific knowledge and the best practices in fishkeeping. Here, you will find everything you need to know about Betta fish care, from how to set up the perfect aquarium for your Betta and its proper feeding, to the secrets of their reproduction and the prevention and treatment of common Betta fish diseases. We will guide you step by step so you can offer your Siamese fighting fish a long, healthy, and happy life.

At the end of this article, you will find additional references and resources to delve deeper into specific topics and become an expert in caring for your Betta.

Characteristics of Betta Fish

Taxonomy of the Betta Fish

• Domain: Eukaryota
• Kingdom: Animalia
• Phylum: Chordata
• Class: Actinopterygii
• Order: Anabantiformes
• Family: Osphronemidae
• Genus: Betta
• Species: Betta splendens
• English Names: Betta fish, Siamese fighting fish, labyrinth fish.

Genetic studies

Tang et al. (2024) conducted a comparative transcriptome analysis to identify pigmentation genes expressed in the skin, muscles, and tail of the “Thai-flag” variety of the Betta splendens fish, in comparison with the solid-colored Blue, White, and Red varieties. They found 432 pigmentation genes in the Betta fish; of these, 297 Differentially Expressed Genes showed differential expression among the varieties.

Anatomical characteristics

Betta fish are small fish that can live for 3 to 5 years. Males typically reach up to 2 inches in length, and females reach up to 1.5 inches. They are known for their long, flowing fins, which are especially prominent in males. Betta fish come in a wide variety of colors, including red, blue, green, purple, and white. They can also have patterns, such as stripes, spots, or marbling.

Male betta fish

Male bettas are usually more ornate and more beautiful compared to females. At two months of age, males can be differentiated from females. In the wild, male bettas never develop the beautiful fins commonly seen on fish in pet stores.

Unlike female betta fish, male betta fish cannot live together in the same tank. Males will fight to the death, which is why they should never be placed together in a fish tank. Male bettas are aggressive, flaring their gills and biting the fins of other males. In nature, Betta fish fights may only last for 15 minutes.

Female Betta fish

Female betta fish have less vibrant colors than males. Specialists recommend that female betta fish should not be kept with males unless you want to breed them.

Although female bettas can fight with each other when in a small aquarium, these fights are very rare.

Habitat

Bettas (Betta splendens) belong to the Labyrinth fish family and live in shallow, nearly stagnant waters such as marshes, floodplains, and rice paddies. These fish are native to Southeast Asia, primarily Thailand and Cambodia.

They were first bred for fighting in Thailand around the year 1850, and their aggressive nature is still evident in males today. However, betta fish have also been selectively bred for their appearance, and there are now many different varieties available in a wide range of colors and patterns.

Ethical considerations and how to choose a healthy Betta Fish

Before acquiring a Betta fish, it is essential to reflect on the responsibility that comes with it. The popularity of these fish has, in some cases, led to mass breeding practices and poor sales conditions.

Key points for a responsible acquisition:

• Avoid small containers: Bettas sold in cups or tiny containers suffer. Look for sellers who keep them in appropriately sized individual tanks with clean, filtered water.
• Observe the fish: A healthy Betta fish should be active, alert, and have bright colors. Its fins should be intact and spread out, not clamped to its body or frayed. Avoid fish that are lethargic, at the bottom of the tank, have strange spots, rapid breathing, or damaged fins.
• Ask about the origin: If possible, inquire about the breeder. Responsible Betta fish breeders care about the genetic health and well-being of their fish, avoiding overbreeding that can lead to genetic problems and a shorter lifespan for the Betta fish.
• Varieties and health: Some varieties with extremely long fins (like certain “Rosetail” or “Feathertail” types) or highly modified bodies can be more prone to health issues. “Plakat” (short-finned) or standard “Veiltail” Bettas are generally more robust. Consider ethical Betta types that prioritize health over extreme aesthetics.
• Don’t buy on impulse: Do your research and prepare the aquarium before bringing the fish home.

Transporting Betta Fish

According to data from wholesalers who trade ornamental fish in Florida (USA), at least 2% of betta fish die during transport, and less than 0.5% die in the retail trade. In this regard, if you need to transport betta fish, you must consider that they should be moved individually in plastic bags with 10 ml of air per fish (a water to air volume ratio of 1:3), which allows for trips of up to 5 days.

The transport of betta fish, and of all fish in general, is one of the highest-risk activities because any miscalculation can induce stress and affect survival. Sintuprom et al. (2024) recommend adding clove oil at a concentration of 1 mg/L to the transport water for betta fish, which can significantly mitigate the stress response and improve animal welfare during both short (12 h) and long-term (24-48 h) transport.

Likewise, Thongprajukaew et al. (2023) determined that the minimum water volume that B. splendens tolerated well during transport was 80 ml, and that these results can be used as a guideline for the local ground shipping of male Siamese fighting fish.

Upon arriving home: The acclimation process

Once you have chosen your Betta fish, the acclimation process is crucial to minimize stress and ensure a safe transition to its new home.

1. Turn off the aquarium lights: Reduce stress by lowering the light intensity.
2. Float the bag: Let the sealed bag float in the aquarium water for 15-20 minutes. This will equalize the water temperature in the bag with that of the aquarium.
3. Gradual water introduction:
   • Open the bag and carefully pour out about half of the bag’s water (away from the aquarium).
   • Add an amount of water from the aquarium into the bag that is equivalent to what you removed.
   • Repeat this process every 10-15 minutes for an hour. This allows the fish to gradually adapt to the water parameters of its new aquarium (pH, hardness, etc.).
4. Release: Carefully use a small net to move the Betta from the bag and release it into the aquarium. Do not pour the water from the bag into your aquarium, as it could contain waste or pathogens from the store.
5. Observation: Keep the aquarium lights off for a few more hours and observe your Betta discreetly. It is normal for it to be shy or hide at first. Do not feed it on the first day.

How do Betta Fish reproduce?

Breeding Betta fish is a fascinating process, but one that requires preparation and dedication. It is not something to be taken lightly.

Preparations

• Selecting the breeders: Choose a healthy, vibrant, and well-fed male and female. They should be between 4 and 12 months old for the best results. Betta fish reach sexual maturity at approximately five to six months; if you wish to obtain fish with desired characteristics, you must know the lineage of the male and female bettas.
• Conditioning: Feed both fish high-quality and varied foods (including live or frozen) for 1-2 weeks before the breeding attempt.
• Breeding tank: A separate tank of about 20-40 liters (approx. 5-10 gallons) with a lid. A low water level (10-15 cm or 4-6 inches). No substrate or a thin layer of sand to make egg collection easier. A heater set to 26-28°C (79-82°F). A gentle sponge filter or no filter (with very careful water changes). Floating plants or a piece of styrofoam for the male to build his nest. A hiding place for the female (PVC pipe, dense plant). Monvises et al. (2009) recommend that the betta pair should be placed in a tank or aquarium with vegetation present. The water depth in the tank should not exceed 15 cm. Lichak et al. (2022) report success in breeding betta fish in 5-liter tanks.

The step-by-step breeding process

1. Introducing the male: Introduce the male into the breeding tank. It should begin to build a Betta bubble nest.
2. Presenting the female: Place the female in a transparent container inside the breeding tank, or use an aquarium divider, so they can see but not touch each other. This allows the male to see her and be stimulated, and for the female to develop eggs (she will show vertical stripes if she is receptive and a prominent ovipositor). This “visual courtship” can last for several days. A curious fact described by Clotfelter et al. (2007) in this ornamental fish species is that female betta fish prefer to mate with red bettas over blue betta males; however, the researchers describe that blue male betta fish are more resistant to diseases.
3. Releasing the female: If the male has built a good nest and the female shows signs of readiness (vertical stripes, approaches the male submissively), you can release her into the breeding tank. Observe very carefully. Some chasing and fin nipping is normal, but if the aggression is severe, separate them and try again later. In this regard, it is important to consider the photoperiod; Pertiwi et al. (2025) concluded that the P2 photoperiod (14 hours of light and 10 hours of darkness) appears to be recommendable for promoting reproduction in female Betta splendens.
4. The “Nuptial Embrace”: The male will try to lure the female under the nest. He will wrap his body around her in a “nuptial embrace,” during which the female will release the eggs and the male will fertilize them. The eggs, usually white and small, will fall.
5. Collecting the eggs: The male (and sometimes the female, although it’s better if only the male does it) will collect the eggs with his mouth and place them in the bubble nest.
6. Removing the female: Once spawning is over and the female no longer releases eggs, you must remove her immediately. The male will become aggressive towards her to protect the nest.
7. Paternal care: The male will care for the eggs, keeping them in the nest and collecting any that fall. Hatching occurs in 24-48 hours.

Hatching of the bettas: The hatching of B. splendens significantly decreases in water hardness levels above 540 ppm, recording only 25% success at 900 ppm compared to 78% in the control. The fry will remain in the nest for a few days, feeding on their yolk sac. Once they are swimming freely in a horizontal position (approximately 2-3 days after hatching), the male must be removed, as he might start to eat them.

Care of Betta Fish larvae

It is important to note that the bubble nest allows the eggs to develop in environments with high temperatures and low pH and oxygen levels. The placement of the eggs at the surface increases oxygen exchange (Watson et al., 2019). The male betta fish will protect the fry for an additional three or four days while the larvae finish absorbing their yolk sacs; Murray et al. (2024) described that mouth formation and opening occurred at 2 DPH (days post-hatching), larvae began to actively ingest food at 3 DPH, and yolk reserves were depleted by 5 DPH.

Traditionally, live food (mainly Artemia nauplii) is used during the first stages of a betta fish’s life; however, the availability of these foods is limited and prices are high. In this regard, Murray et al. (2024) reported that the introduction of artificial microdiets at 15 and 18 DPH produced survival and growth similar to those observed with the reference diet of Artemia spp.

Fry Tank Maintenance: Very small and frequent water changes with dechlorinated water at the same temperature are crucial. Raising Bettas requires time, space (you will need many containers to separate the young males), and a plan for the resulting fry. Betta fish can be raised together as a group until they reach 3 to 4 months of age, which is when the males must be separated into individual containers to prevent aggression. The females can continue to be raised in groups.

Masculinization of Betta Fish larvae

As we described earlier, male and female betta fish have significant morphological differences, with males being more attractive. This makes the price of males much higher than that of females.

This situation has fueled interest in having all-male betta fish populations through masculinization with hormones or sex reversal using androgenic hormones; however, the use of these hormones is prohibited.

What to do?

Pattiasina et al. (2021) used a natural honey solution for masculinization tests on betta fish larvae. They report that 12-hour immersion treatments achieve male ratios of 93% and that the most suitable age is 7 days post-hatching. Meanwhile, Kumkhong et al. (2024) obtained masculinization of an entire betta fish population from a 45-day treatment group with 60 and 100 mg kg-1 of 17α-MT (alpha-methyltestosterone).

Care of male Betta Fish

Males can be raised commercially in small bottles. Male betta fish are raised in these conditions for 8 to 12 weeks depending on their attributes such as size, fin characteristics, and colors desired by the aquarist.

At the retail level, male bettas are typically kept in small bowls. It is important to note that researchers have determined that male betta fish grow better in bowls with 150 ml of water compared to those with 300 ml of water; in other words, they adapt better to small aquariums. However, it is important to emphasize that in small volumes of water, the dissolved oxygen level decreases rapidly.

Feeding your betta fish: What, how much, and when?

A balanced diet for a Betta is crucial for its health, coloration, and vitality. Bettas are primarily carnivorous (insectivores in the wild), feeding on insects, small crustaceans, mosquito larvae, and other aquatic arthropods.

Types of food for Bettas

• Quality staple food:
  • Betta pellets or granules: Look for foods specifically formulated for Bettas, with high protein content (ideally from sources like krill, shrimp, or fish) and low in fillers. Good quality pellets typically contain 30-40% protein. Examples: Hikari Betta Bio-Gold, New Life Spectrum Betta, Omega One Betta Buffet Pellets. On the other hand, Thongprajukaew et al. (2023) report that using cooked chicken egg in the diet of male betta fish can achieve the same results as commercial diets.
  • Betta Flakes: These can also be an option, but pellets make it easier to control portions.
• Live food (occasionally, as a “treat” and for enrichment):
  • Mosquito larvae: A natural favorite. Mejía et al. (2021) report that using mosquito larvae in the diet of betta fish improves the growth and coloration of these ornamental fish.
  • Daphnia (water fleas): An excellent source of fiber, aids in digestion.
  • Artemia (adult brine shrimp or nauplii): A good source of protein.
  • Caution: Ensure that live food comes from safe sources to avoid introducing parasites or diseases. Many aquarists cultivate their own live foods.
• Frozen food (a good alternative to live food):
  • Similar to live food but safer in terms of pathogens if purchased from reputable brands. Options include frozen mosquito larvae, daphnia, artemia, mysis shrimp, and tubifex worms. Thaw a small portion in aquarium water before offering it.
• Freeze-Dried food (occasionally):
  • Less nutritious than live or frozen food, as the freeze-drying process can degrade some vitamins. Always soak it in aquarium water before feeding to prevent bloating issues.

Mixed feeding

Sipaúba et al. (2016) obtained the best growth and survival (82%) for betta fish with a mixed diet that included a base diet with 32% crude protein and live food (Rotifers, Lecane sp., and the microalgae Asterionella sp. and Melosira sp.). Meanwhile, Montes de Oca et al. (2024) report an improvement in skin coloration and in the response to induced injuries when Betta splendens are fed Cladocerans enriched with oyster mushroom (Pleurotus ostreatus) powder.

Other inputs

• Carotenoids: Carotenoids are important in the betta’s diet, both for immune response and for scale coloration; for example, red bettas need carotenoids to maintain their color, while blue bettas do not (Pleeging & Moons, 2017). In this regard, Patria et al. (2024) report that the addition of 15% spirulina (SP) powder from the blue-green microalga Arthrospira maxima significantly increased growth and color brightness in Betta fish.
• Humic acid: The results of the research by Hemmatzadeh et al. (2024) indicate that a diet containing 1% humic acid has a positive effect on the physiology, immunology, and behavior of male B. splendens. Humic substances are weakly acidic electrolytes produced by the decomposition of organic matter and are common in the natural habitats of fish.

Frequency and amount of food for a Betta Fish

• How much to feed a Betta fish: A Betta’s stomach is approximately the size of its eye. A general rule is to offer 2 to 4 pellets once or twice a day. If you use other foods, adjust the amount accordingly.
• Betta feeding frequency: Once or twice a day is sufficient for an adult. Fry need more frequent feedings.
• Fasting day: It is beneficial to have one fasting day per week to help cleanse their digestive system and prevent overfeeding, which can lead to obesity and swim bladder problems.
• Observe and adjust: If your Betta leaves food, you are feeding too much. Remove the excess to avoid contaminating the water. If it appears bloated, reduce the amount and consider offering daphnia.

Common feeding mistakes

• Overfeeding: This is one of the most common and harmful mistakes.
• Low-quality foods: Those with many plant-based fillers (corn, wheat) are not ideal.
• Not varying the diet: Offering only one type of food can lead to nutritional deficiencies.

What do Betta Fish larvae eat?

Lichak et al. (2022) provides a detailed description of the rearing and feeding of Betta splendens larvae. Table 1 summarizes the different growth stages, care conditions, and feeding.

Table 01. Feeding and care of Betta fish at different stages of development.

Betta Fish types and varieties: A world of colors and forms

A total of 73 classes of Betta fish live in the freshwater environments of Southeast Asia. These fish come from the Mekong and Chao Phraya river basins in Thailand (formerly known as Siam).

Betta fish have brightly colored fins and various types of tails (veil, spade, double, crown, halfmoon). Common colors include red, blue, black, white, and orange. Rarer colors include metallic, copper, and turquoise. Recently, photographer Visarute Angkatavanich published a series of spectacular photos of different types of Betta fish on the National Geographic website.

It is important to note that the variety of Betta fish is due to selective breeding by enthusiasts. The main types of tails are veiltail, crowntail, and halfmoon.

The popularity of Betta splendens has led to the development of an astonishing diversity of Betta fish types, primarily classified by their fin shape and color patterns. Knowing them will help you differentiate Betta fish and appreciate their variety.

Betta types by fin shape

• Plakat (PK): Short, rounded fins, similar to the wild form. They are robust and active.
  • Halfmoon Plakat (HMPK): A Plakat with a caudal (tail) fin that forms a 180-degree angle.
  • Crowntail Plakat (CTPK): A Plakat with extended rays in the fins, giving them a crown-like appearance.
• Veil Tail (VT): The most common and often the most affordable variety. The caudal fin is long and droopy.
• Crowntail (CT): The fin rays extend beyond the membrane, creating a spiky or crown-like look.
• Halfmoon (HM): The caudal fin has a 180-degree spread, forming a perfect “D” shape.
  • Over Halfmoon (OHM): The spread of the caudal fin exceeds 180 degrees.
• Delta Tail (DT): A triangular caudal fin, but with a smaller spread than a Halfmoon.
  • Super Delta (SDT): An improved version of the Delta, closer to a Halfmoon but not reaching the full 180 degrees.
• Double Tail (DT): They have two distinct lobes in the caudal fin and a wider dorsal fin. They can be more prone to swim bladder problems due to a shorter body.
• Rosetail / Feathertail: Variations of the Halfmoon with excessive branching in the fins, giving them a rose or feather-like appearance. They may have difficulty swimming if the fins are too heavy.
• Dumbo or Elephant Ear: Very large pectoral fins (the side fins), which look like elephant ears.

Betta types by color pattern

• Solid: A single, uniform color (red, blue, yellow, white, black).
• Bicolor: The body is one color and the fins are another.
• Butterfly: A solid-colored body with fins that have a band of a different color on the edge, usually white or transparent.
• Marble: Irregular patterns of opaque and translucent colors, or of different colors, which can change over time.
• Dragon Scale: Thick, metallic scales, often with a lighter-colored body and iridescent scales. They can be prone to developing tumors or vision problems if the scales grow over their eyes.
• Koi: Color patterns reminiscent of Koi fish (patches of red, black, orange on a white or light background). It is a variant of the Marble pattern.
• Mustard Gas: A dark body (usually blue, green, or black) with yellow or orange fins.
• Grizzle: A speckled or “splashed” pattern with at least two colors in the fins, creating a gradient or marbled effect.

It is important to remember that while beauty is an attraction, the health and temperament of the fish are paramount. Some highly modified varieties may require more specific care or be more prone to certain health problems.

If you are interested in genetics, you might find it interesting that research by Zhang et al. (2022) reports a high-quality genome assembly and genetic sequencing of 727 individuals representing diverse morphologies of Betta fish. This can provide more information for the development of new Betta fish varieties.

The ideal aquarium for Your Betta Fish: Size, equipment, setup, and maintenance

Creating the right habitat is the foundation for a healthy and happy Betta fish. Forget about small, round betta bowls or vases; they are not suitable for these fish.

Aquarium size and equipment

Aquarium size

Experience recommends an aquarium of at least 10 liters (2.5 gallons), although 20 liters (5 gallons) or more is ideal. A larger volume of water provides more stability in its parameters, more space for the fish to swim and explore, and dilutes fish waste more effectively. For a community aquarium with Bettas, a considerably larger tank will be needed.

Regarding the water volume of the tank, Clark et al. (2024) highlight that housing conditions significantly affect the behavior and well-being of Siamese fighting fish (Betta splendens). In this respect, Oldfield and Murphy (2024) report that an aquarium of at least 10 liters is required for the fish to exhibit all their characteristics. However, Clark et al. (2024) recommend a minimum tank size of 5.6 L for the display and sale of Siamese fighting fish, but for fish kept as pets, tanks larger than 5.6 L are recommended. In summary, based on researchers, for the display and sale of betta fish, tanks should have a minimum of 5.6 to 10 liters of water.

Small, confined spaces can cause stress to the fish, which affects their well-being; in this sense, Sintuprom et al. (2025) determined that the application of 0.5% sodium chloride (NaCl) can help alleviate stress in betta fish during confinement.

On the other hand, Oldfield and Murphy (2024) and Clark et al. (2024) recommend that tanks should not be sterile, but should contain gravel/pebbles, as well as plants and other decorations to encourage more natural behaviors and provide options for the fish to sleep and hide.

Aquarium shape

A little-discussed topic is whether the shape (circular, square, rectangular, etc.) of the aquarium affects the growth of the betta fish. Thongprajukaew et al. (2024) found that triangular aquariums (both equilateral and right-angled) are more suitable for raising male Siamese fighting fish (Betta splendens) in isolation, as they resulted in a superior growth rate and feed utilization compared to square or rectangular aquariums. In this regard, the study suggests that triangular aquariums may offer narrower corner spaces that resemble the natural habitats of betta fish, providing hiding spots and potentially reducing stress, which could contribute to better growth and well-being.

Aquarium equipment

• Filter: Essential. A gentle filter (sponge filter or one with adjustable flow) is ideal, as Bettas do not like strong currents. The filter keeps the water clean and houses beneficial bacteria essential for the nitrogen cycle.
• Heater: Bettas are tropical fish and need a constant water temperature between 24-27°C (75-80°F). A heater with a thermostat is essential, especially in colder climates.
• Lid: Bettas can jump, so a lid is a good safety measure. It also reduces evaporation.
• Lighting: Moderate light. A light cycle of 8-10 hours a day is sufficient. Avoid direct sunlight, which can overheat the water and promote excessive algae growth.

Step-by-Step guide to setting up and cycling the Betta aquarium

Setting up a new aquarium requires patience to establish a healthy ecosystem before introducing your Betta. This process is called “aquarium cycling.” The main steps are described below:

1. Clean the aquarium and substrate: Rinse the aquarium with water only (no soap). Wash the substrate (fine gravel or sand) thoroughly until the water runs clear.
2. Place the substrate and decoration: Add a 2-5 cm layer of substrate. Place the decorations (make sure they are aquarium-safe and have no sharp edges that could damage the Betta’s fins) and the equipment (filter, heater, but do not turn them on yet).
3. Add plants (optional but recommended): If you are going to use live plants for the Betta aquarium, this is the time to plant them.
4. Fill the aquarium: Pour in dechlorinated water (use a water conditioner to remove chlorine and chloramine). Leave a few centimeters of space at the top.
5. Install and turn on the equipment: Connect the filter and the heater.
6. The Cycling Process (Crucial): Cycling is the process of establishing beneficial bacteria colonies that convert toxic fish waste (ammonia) into less harmful compounds (nitrites and then nitrates).
   • Ammonia Source: You need to add a source of ammonia to “feed” the bacteria. You can use a small pinch of fish food each day or specific cycling products that contain ammonia.
   • Water Tests: You will need a liquid water test kit (like the API Freshwater Master Test Kit) to monitor the levels of ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates.
   • Phases of the Cycle:
     • Ammonia (NH₃/NH₄⁺): At first, you will see a rise in ammonia.
     • Nitrites (NO₂⁻): Then, the ammonia-consuming bacteria will establish themselves, and ammonia levels will drop, while nitrite levels will rise. Nitrite is also very toxic.
     • Nitrates (NO₃⁻): Finally, the nitrite-consuming bacteria will develop, nitrite levels will drop, and nitrate levels will rise. Nitrates are less toxic at low levels and are controlled with water changes.
   • Cycle Complete: The aquarium is cycled when tests show 0 ppm of ammonia, 0 ppm of nitrite, and some reading of nitrate. This process can take from 4 to 8 weeks or more. Do not add your Betta until the aquarium is fully cycled.

Optimal water parameters for a Betta tank

Maintaining the water quality for your Betta fish is vital. Invest in a good liquid test kit and perform analyses regularly.

• Temperature: Bettas are easy to care for in part because they live in tropical waters, with temperatures of 27 to 31.5°C; if we consider the creation of bubble nests by male betta fish as a sign of animal welfare, the water temperature is between 24.4 and 27.7°C (Pleeging & Moons, 2017), with the highest number of bubble nests being built at 26.6°C.
• pH: Slightly acidic to neutral, ideally between 6.5 and 7.5. Bettas can adapt to a slightly wider range if acclimated slowly.
• Ammonia (NH₃/NH₄⁺): 0 ppm (parts per million). It is highly toxic.
• Nitrites (NO₂⁻): 0 ppm. Also highly toxic.
• Nitrates (NO₃⁻): Below 20-40 ppm. They are controlled with regular water changes.
• General Hardness (GH) and Carbonate Hardness (KH): Bettas prefer soft water but can adapt. A GH between 5-15 dGH and a KH between 3-8 dKH is usually acceptable.

Table 02: Key water quality parameters for Betta Fish care.

On the other hand, Puello et al. (2010) demonstrated that betta adults and larvae can tolerate a salinity of 5 ppm, without affecting survival or growth rate. She indicates that routinely keeping betta fish breeders at that salinity will not affect their color, feeding activity, or reproduction.

Long-term aquarium maintenance

Once your Betta is in its cycled home, regular maintenance is key.

Daily:

• Observe your fish: Is it active? Is it eating well? Are its fins healthy?
• Remove any uneaten food.

Weekly:

• Betta Water Changes: Perform a partial water change of 25-30% using dechlorinated water at the same temperature as the aquarium. This helps replenish minerals and keep nitrates low. If the tank is smaller (10L / 2.5 gal), you might need two smaller changes per week.
• Substrate Cleaning: Use a siphon to clean accumulated waste from the substrate during the water change.
• Glass Cleaning: Clean algae from the glass if necessary.
• Water Tests: Especially in new aquariums or if you notice anything unusual. In established and stable aquariums, you can space out nitrate tests to bi-weekly. Ammonia and nitrite must remain at 0 ppm; if not, investigate the cause (overfeeding, dirty filter, etc.).

Monthly:

• Filter Maintenance: Rinse the filter sponge or filter media in the water you have removed from the aquarium during a water change. Never wash the filter media under the tap with chlorinated water, as this would kill the beneficial bacteria. Replace activated carbon cartridges if you use them (usually every 3-4 weeks, although their constant use is debatable unless you need to remove medication).
• Plant Pruning: If you have live plants, prune them as needed.

Troubleshooting common non-disease-related problems:

• Cloudy Water: Can be a bacterial bloom (common in new aquariums, usually clears up on its own), from algae (excess light or nutrients), or from suspended particles (poorly washed substrate).
• Algae Growth: Reduce light hours, control nutrients (don’t overfeed, perform water changes), consider adding compatible snails or shrimp if the tank is large enough.
• Noisy or Low-Flow Filter: Check if it is clogged or needs cleaning. Make sure the pump is working correctly.

Plants and decoration for a stimulating environment

Bettas come from natural habitats with dense vegetation. Recreating this in your aquarium is not only aesthetic but also greatly benefits your fish.

The best plants for Betta aquariums

Bettas “LOVE” plants. Live plants offer hiding places, reduce stress, help maintain water quality by consuming nitrates, and oxygenate it.

Low-requirement plants (Ideal for beginners):

• Anubias (Anubias barteri, Anubias nana): Robust, slow-growing, attach to rocks or driftwood (do not bury the rhizome).
• Java fern (Microsorum pteropus): Similar to Anubias in terms of care, also attached to decor.
• Java moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri): Grows on any surface, ideal for fry and shrimp.
• Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum): Can float or be planted, grows fast, and is an excellent nitrate consumer.
• Elodea/Anacharis (Egeria densa): Similar to Hornwort, easy to care for.
• Cryptocoryne (Various species): Rosette plants that are planted in the substrate, come in various shapes and colors.
• Floating plants: Such as Duckweed (Lemna minor) or Salvinia, they offer shade and places for the Betta to build its bubble nest, but make sure they don’t cover the entire surface and impede gas exchange or the Betta’s access to air.
• Indian almond leaves (Catappa): Although not live plants, adding these leaves releases beneficial tannins that can slightly acidify the water, have antibacterial and antifungal properties, and Bettas love to hide under them.

Basic plant care

• Lighting: Ensure your aquarium light is adequate for the plants you choose.
• Nutrient substrate (for root-feeding plants): Some plants, like Cryptocorynes, benefit from a nutrient-rich substrate or root tab fertilizers.
• Liquid fertilization (occasional): For most low-requirement plants, nutrients from fish waste and water changes may be sufficient. If you notice deficiencies, you can use a comprehensive liquid fertilizer in moderation.

Safe decoration and environmental enrichment

• Hiding spots: Bettas need places to retreat and feel secure. Caves, tubes, driftwood, and dense plants are excellent.
• Safe materials: Use only aquarium-specific decoration. Avoid metal objects, calcareous rocks (which can alter pH and hardness), or plastics with sharp edges. Silk or soft plastic plants are preferable to hard plastic ones if you opt for artificial plants.
• Betta “Hammock”: These are plastic or silk leaves with a suction cup that are placed near the surface. Many Bettas enjoy resting on them.
• Betta toys (with caution): Some small floating objects (like a clean ping pong ball) can offer stimulation. Always observe the interaction to ensure it doesn’t cause stress or harm.
• Do not use mirrors constantly: Showing a Betta its reflection can induce a fight response. It can be used briefly (a few minutes a day) to encourage “flaring” (extension of fins and opercula), which is a natural exercise, but prolonged exposure causes stress.

Betta fish behavior

The behavior of the Betta fish is one of its most interesting aspects.

• Aggressiveness and territoriality: Male Bettas are extremely territorial, especially with other males of their species or fish with a similar appearance (long fins, bright colors). Two male Bettas should never be housed together in the same small aquarium, as they will fight to the death or until one is severely injured. This is one of the main curiosities of the Betta fish. In this regard, Oliveira et al. (2022) highlight that a dose of oxytocin of 7.5 µg/g reduces the aggressive behavior of Betta splendens.
• “Flaring” or display: When a Betta extends its fins and opercula (gill covers), it is showing a sign of aggression or courtship. It is a natural behavior.
• Bubble nests: Male Bettas build bubble nests on the water’s surface, often under leaves or floating plants. This is a sign that the male is healthy, happy, and ready to reproduce, even if no female is present.
• Interaction: Many Bettas recognize their owners and may approach the glass when they see you. They can learn to follow your finger or even to carefully take food from it.
• Signs of a healthy Betta fish: Active, curious, vibrant colors, extended fins, good appetite, builds bubble nests (males).
• Warning signs or a sick Betta fish: Lethargy, loss of color, clamped or frayed fins, lack of appetite, rapid breathing, rubbing against objects, unusual spots, bloating.

Betta fish compatibility in community aquariums

Although male Bettas are aggressive towards each other, they can sometimes coexist with other fish species if certain conditions are met. However, this always carries a risk and depends on the individual temperament of the Betta.

Factors to consider:

• Aquarium size: A community aquarium with a Betta must be spacious, at least 75 liters (20 gallons) or more, with many plants and hiding places to reduce stress and aggression.
• Betta’s temperament: Some Bettas are more peaceful than others. Observe your Betta before considering tank mates.
• Characteristics of tank mates:
  • Avoid: Fish with long, flowing fins (like male guppies), brightly colored fish that could be mistaken for other Bettas, known fin-nippers (like some barbs or aggressive tetras), and other labyrinth fish (like gouramis, which can be territorial).
  • Consider: Peaceful, fast-swimming fish that occupy different levels of the aquarium and are not too flashy.

Fish compatible with Betta fish (with caution and in appropriate aquariums):

• Corydoras (Corydoras spp.): Small bottom-dwelling fish, peaceful and good cleaners. They need to be in groups of at least 5-6.
• Otocinclus (Otocinclus spp.): Small algae eaters, very peaceful. They also need groups.
• Kuhli Loaches (Pangio kuhlii): Elongated, peaceful fish that hide during the day. Best in groups.
• Small, peaceful Tetras: Such as Neon Tetras (Paracheirodon innesi, although some Bettas may bother them), Ember Tetras (Hyphessobrycon amandae), or Harlequin Rasboras (Trigonostigma heteromorpha). They need schools.
• Snails: Nerite snails (excellent algae eaters, do not reproduce in freshwater), Apple snails (can grow large), Mystery snails.
• Shrimp: Neocaridina shrimp (like Red Cherry Shrimp) or Amano shrimp can work, but some Bettas will see them as food. Provide plenty of hiding spots if you try to keep them together.

Fish NOT compatible with Betta (generally):

• Other Bettas (especially males). Female Bettas can sometimes live together in “sororities” in large, heavily planted tanks, but this requires experience and can be stressful.
• Gouramis.
• Angelfish.
• Tiger Barbs and other fin-nipping barbs.
• Male guppies with flashy tails.
• Aggressive cichlids.

Always have a backup plan: If cohabitation doesn’t work out, you will need a separate aquarium for the Betta or the other fish.

Betta Fish diseases: Prevention and treatment

The best medicine is prevention. A clean environment, a proper diet, and avoiding stress are key to keeping your Betta fish healthy.

General signs of illness

• Lethargy or apathetic behavior.
• Loss of appetite.
• Loss of color or the appearance of dull colors.
• Clamped, frayed, or eroding fins (Betta fin rot).
• Rapid breathing or gasping at the surface (if it is constant and not out of curiosity).
• Rubbing against aquarium objects (“flashing”).
• White spots (like salt or cotton), golden/coppery dots, ulcers, cysts.
• Swelling of the body or eyes (Betta dropsy, pop-eye).
• Erratic swimming or buoyancy problems (Betta swim bladder disorders).

Common diseases and treatments

• Fin and Tail Rot
  • Causes: Poor water quality (primary cause), stress, secondary bacterial or fungal infections.
  • Symptoms: Fins that appear corroded, frayed, shortened, sometimes with reddened or white edges.
  • Treatment: Improve water quality (frequent water changes), add Indian almond leaves. If severe, use specific antibacterial fish medications (e.g., Kanaplex, Furan-2) in a hospital tank. Lichak et al. (2022) recommend treating fish suffering from this disease with a 4-day course of the antibiotic Furan 2 (nitrofurazone) at 51 to 46 mg/L, with 100% daily water changes.
• White Spot “Ich” (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis)
  • Causes: A protozoan parasite (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis), often introduced by new fish or plants, or latent and activated by stress.
  • Symptoms: Small white spots (like grains of salt) on the body and fins, flashing, lethargy.
  • Treatment: Gradually increase the aquarium temperature to 28-29°C (82-85°F) over several days (this speeds up the parasite’s life cycle), use anti-Ich medications (based on malachite green, formalin, or copper sulfate for Bettas with extreme caution, as Bettas can be sensitive). Ensure the medication is safe for labyrinth fish.
• Velvet (Oodinium spp.)
  • Causes: A dinoflagellate parasite of the genus Oodinium.
  • Symptoms: A dusty appearance of a golden, rust, or coppery color on the skin and fins (difficult to see without good light), flashing, lethargy, difficulty breathing. The easiest way to identify betta fish with velvet is by observing a layer that looks like gold dust on the fish’s body (Lichak et al., 2022).
  • Treatment: Similar to Ich, but can be more persistent. Turn off the aquarium lights (the parasite has photosynthetic stages). Medications like Cupramine for Bettas (with caution and following exact doses) or specific treatments for Velvet. For the treatment of this disease, Lichak et al. (2022) recommend a 5-day treatment cycle of Proform C (Pentair, Cary, NC) at a dose of 30 μL per L of tank volume, with 100% daily water changes.
• Columnaris (Flexibacter columnaris)
  • Causes: Bacterial infection.
  • Symptoms: Cottony lesions (often mistaken for fungus), sores, erosion of the mouth (“cotton mouth”), rapid fin rot.
  • Treatment: Antibiotics (e.g., Kanaplex, Furan-2, Maracyn 2). It is contagious and can be fatal quickly.
• Dropsy
  • Causes: Not a disease itself, but a symptom of internal organ failure (usually kidneys), often due to bacterial infections, chronic poor water quality, or genetic problems.
  • Symptoms: Severe bloating of the body, raised scales (a “pinecone” appearance).
  • Treatment: Prognosis is generally poor. Epsom salt baths (not aquarium salt) can be tried to help reduce swelling, and antibiotics in a hospital tank, but recovery is rare. Humane euthanasia is often considered if the fish is suffering.
• Swim Bladder Problems
  • Causes: Overfeeding, constipation, chilling, bacterial infections, sometimes genetic defects.
  • Symptoms: Difficulty swimming (floats on its side, upside down, or sinks), swollen belly.
  • Treatment: Fast for 2-3 days. Then, offer daphnia (which acts as a laxative). Ensure a stable temperature and good water quality. If it’s due to an infection, antibiotics may be needed.
• Mycobacteriosis: It is the most common cause of death in bettas in fish farms in Thailand, and it also poses risks to humans. In sick bettas, granulomas form in the liver, spleen, and kidneys. Other symptoms include anorexia, exophthalmia, keratitis, and skeletal deformities. There is no definitive treatment for mycobacteriosis; in this sense, prevention is the best alternative. Dinh-Hung et al. (2024) reported that ozone nanobubbles (NB-O3) effectively reduce bacterial concentrations in the water, mitigate the risk of mycobacteriosis, and improve the survival capacity of betta fish exposed to multi-drug resistant Mycobacterium chelonae; the scientists reported that incubation in water with NB-O3 for 60 minutes reduced the concentration of M. chelonae by 96.71% to 99.92%.
• Fungal Infections
  • Causes: Generally secondary to injuries or stress in poor quality water.
  • Symptoms: White or gray cottony growths on the body or fins.
  • Treatment: Improve water quality. Use antifungal medications (e.g., those based on methylene blue or commercial products like Polyguard for Bettas). Indian almond leaves can help prevent them.
  • Betta fish, and freshwater ornamental fish in general, are often parasitized by the dinoflagellate Piscinoodinium or by the fungus Saprolegnia. Young bettas are especially sensitive to infection and the development of the disease. An effective treatment is baths with salt water up to 5 ppm.

If you notice any signs of illness in your betta fish, it is important to treat the disease as soon as possible. There are several over-the-counter medications available, or you can take your fish to a veterinarian.

• Cancer: Although infrequent, betta fish can also suffer from cancer. Crevoiserat et al. (2024) reported for the first time an intraocular iridophoroma in a betta fish (Betta splendens); the study describes the case of an adult betta fish with buphthalmia (enlarged eye) in the right eye. For their part, Diniz et al. (2025) reported the findings of iridophoromas in the Siamese fighting fish; they attribute the high incidence of iridophoromas in betta fish from the same breeding facility, along with a higher occurrence in royal blue and copper fantasy color patterns, and in young males, to a possible genetic/hereditary factor in the tumorigenesis of these neoplasms.

Important

The following general recommendations will allow for the proper treatment of your sick fish:

• Water quality first: Many problems are resolved or prevented by maintaining excellent water quality. Likewise, the use of cinnamon extract (2 g L-1) has strong potential as an antimicrobial agent to reduce bacterial contamination (Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa) in the culture water of Siamese fighting fish (Kamolrat et al., 2024).
• Hospital tank: It is always better to treat sick fish in a separate tank so as not to medicate the entire main aquarium (which can harm beneficial bacteria, plants, and invertebrates).
• Follow instructions: Carefully read and follow the instructions for any medication.
• Do not mix medications unless you know it is safe.

Conclusion

Betta fish are, without a doubt, extraordinary aquatic pets that can provide years of enjoyment and beauty with proper care. While their reputation as “fighters” is well-deserved, they are also intelligent and curious fish that can interact with their owners.

Providing them with a suitable environment that meets their physical and behavioral needs—from a spacious and well-equipped aquarium to a nutritious diet and mental stimulation—is the key for your Betta splendens to thrive. The information we have provided in this complete guide on Betta fish care, their feeding, reproduction, the most common Betta fish diseases, and how to prepare the perfect aquarium for your Betta fish will serve as a solid foundation.

Remember that constant observation and continuous learning are the best tools of a responsible aquarist. Enjoy the wonderful experience of caring for your Siamese fighting fish!

Frequently asked questions about Betta Fish (FAQ)

• How long does a Betta fish live? Generally 3 to 5 years with good care, although the lifespan of a Betta fish can vary.
• What do Betta fish eat? They are carnivores. Their main diet should be high-quality Betta pellets, supplemented with live, frozen, or freeze-dried foods. Learn how to feed your Betta fish correctly to avoid problems.
• Do Betta fish need a filter? Yes, a filter is essential to maintain water quality and the Betta’s health. Opt for a low-flow one.
• Do Betta fish need a heater? Yes, they are tropical fish and need a constant temperature of 24-27°C (75-80°F).
• What size aquarium does a Betta need? A minimum of 10 liters (2.5 gallons), ideally 20 liters (5 gallons) or more.
• Why is my Betta making bubbles on the surface? If it’s a male, he is likely building a bubble nest, which is a positive sign.
• Can I put two Bettas together? Never two males. Females can sometimes be kept in “sororities” (large, heavily planted tanks, requires experience). It is best to keep them individually.
• How do I know if my Betta fish is sick? Look for changes in behavior (lethargy), appetite, coloration, or the appearance of the fins and body. Knowing the common Betta fish diseases helps with early detection.
• What are the optimal water parameters for a Betta tank? Ammonia 0 ppm, Nitrite 0 ppm, Nitrate <20-40 ppm, pH 6.5-7.5, Temperature 24-27°C (75-80°F).

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Milthon Lujan

Editor at the digital magazine AquaHoy. He holds a degree in Aquaculture Biology from the National University of Santa (UNS) and a Master’s degree in Science and Innovation Management from the Polytechnic University of Valencia, with postgraduate diplomas in Business Innovation and Innovation Management. He possesses extensive experience in the aquaculture and fisheries sector, having led the Fisheries Innovation Unit of the National Program for Innovation in Fisheries and Aquaculture (PNIPA). He has served as a senior consultant in technology watch, an innovation project formulator and advisor, and a lecturer at UNS. He is a member of the Peruvian College of Biologists and was recognized by the World Aquaculture Society (WAS) in 2016 for his contribution to aquaculture.